As promised a few days ago, today I’m sharing my version of another free pattern from NOSH – The Jackie Dress. I already tried the kids shirt a couple of weeks ago, you can see it here. I’ll also share the steps I used to make it, since the original ones are in Finnish.
So this is a simple jersey dress pattern, with a nice scooped neckline that I absolutely love, a really good basic wardrobe piece, at least for me, that mostly wear casual clothes. I made it in jersey has recommended in the pattern, this grey melange came from my local fabric shop (Feira dos Tecidos), I used it before (here) and the quality is good.
The pattern comes in 5 sizes (XS,S,M,L,XL), I made size S and my current measurements (so that you have a guide since there is no size chart) are: bust – 33in/84cm, waist – 27,5in, 70cm, hip 37in/94cm and I’m 1.62m tall.
I promise I ironed the thing before the photos ok? ahahah
I removed 10 cm in height and also 5 cm to the sleeve length to get a look similar to what the pattern originally intends, because you know Finnish women may be just a bit taller than me in general. hehehe 😉
Dork face hahahah 😀 Silly girl taking over just for one sentence. heheh
I’m happy with the fit, the one thing that I don’t think is perfect on me is the back of the sleeve but I can totally live with it, maybe its due to my shoulders being broad or something… And maybe, just maybe ok (don’t get your hopes on me all high hahah) I’ll try to adjust it when I make it again… 😀
For the neckline finish I used a bit of NOSH rib in petrol blue, this is such perfect quality! ❤ This color isn’t in stock anymore but there are plenty of other pretties here. I decided to try a new to me technique, sewing the rib has bias on the right side of the neckline and then folding to the inside and stitching in the ditch with a regular stitch. I know this may not be appropriate and I only did it like this because the neckline is wide and I don’t have to stretch it to put it on. So please don’t follow my lead if you don’t think its appropriate. 😀 It ended up not absolutely perfect and I can see some stitches but it was good practice. 😉
The first version I made with this pattern was in size M. It was big on me so I decided to try and adjust it to fit me better. I used a medium weight double sided interlock, also from local fabric shop that gave it a more structured look, I really liked the result too.
The short sleeves happened because I didn’t have enough fabric but I like them, they are perfect to layer with a long sleeve shirt. Also this is about 2,5 cm shorter than the melange grey dress above because I forgot to leave seam allowance when I cut the 10 cm portion for height adjustment.
Something weird happened during washing, after the first use (I only took these photos after it) and the fabric gained some marks that I haven’t been able to remove with ironing… Maybe this one isn’t a great deal of a fabric Portuguese friends.
I finished the neckline with a facing in the same fabric, topstitched in place with a double needle.
Here’s a little guide in english on the instructions. These are the steps I used to make these versions and they aren’t an exact copy or translation to what the pattern specifies. Please use the original pattern if you prefer, google translate is enough to get you a rough idea of the original steps. I’ve used a serger to make it but it can be made with a regular sewing machine, just make sure you’re using a stitch that is adequate. I din’t include the zipper on the back so it won’t appear on the steps, but they recommend using a 15 cm one (you don’t need the zipper to put the dress on, it’s a design feature). I did not use the neckband method to finish either of the dresses but I’m leaving the steps for a band because I’m probably not the best person to advise on other ways of doing it… heheh 😉
- Print your pattern in 100% or no scale option, don’t forget to open in adobe acrobat to ensure that you’ll have the right size. There’s a square box to check if the sizing is good. Printing and assembly is like any other pdf pattern, and all the pages match perfectly. There’s an assembly diagram on the second page, but all the pages have reference to which one they should join with.
- Assemble your pattern and trace or cut your preferred size. Since the pattern does not include seam allowance on most seams I prefer to trace. The pattern pieces are numbered: 1 and 1a for the front piece, 2 and 2 a for the back piece and 3 for the sleeves. You’ll have to join pieces 1 and 1a together by matching the lines and small triangles, you’ll also have to do it to pieces 2 and 2a.
- Add 1 cm seam allowance to all seams except hem of the bodice, sleeves and neckline. Add 2 cm hem allowance on the bodice pattern pieces. No additional seam allowance is required for the hem of the sleeves or the neckline.
- Trace the pattern pieces on your fabric (1 x front piece; 1 x back piece; 2 x sleeves – mirrored), don’t forget that the bodice pattern pieces are to be cut on fold.
- Since they are using a zipper they don’t include in the pattern the exact measurement for the rib to finish the neckline, they say you’ll need a 1,5cm x 70/80 cm piece of flexible bias or cuff knit/rib knit. For a neckband finish (please mind that this is different from what the pattern instructs) my option would be to measure the neckline (at the seam line) and cut a strip with 80% of that measurement for about 4 cm wide.
- Serge the edges of your sleeves and bodice pieces (only at the hem seams).
- Pre press the hem allowance on the sleeves and bodice to the wrong side; this makes it much faster to sew the hems later.
- Align your front and back bodice pieces with right sides facing, pin and sew them together at the shoulder seams. Press the seams toward the back.
- Take one sleeve and align and pin it (right sides facing) with the armhole on the bodice piece, matching the sleeve head notch to the shoulder seam. Repeat to the other sleeve. Press the seams towards the bodice (this is my preferred way, but naturally you can make it the way you think it’s more correct).
- Arrange your garment with right sides facing, aligning all the edges. Sew along the sleeve and bodice. Repeat to the other side. Press your seams.
- Fold the neckline band in half with right sides facing and sew the edges together. Press the seam to one side. Fold it in half (on the shorter length) with wrong sides facing and matching the raw edges, and press.
- With right sides facing, align the seam on the band with one of the shoulder seams. Since there aren’t any notches to align the band with the bodice neckline I suggest you distribute the band has evenly has you can around the neckline, pinning and correcting has needed. Sew them together slightly stretching the band so it fits the neckline, I always do this on my regular sewing machine with a stretch stitch and then serge the raw edge; naturally you can make it the way you prefer. Be careful not to stretch the neckline.
- Press your neckband. I usually use a double needle to secure the seam allowance by topstitching all around the neckline.
- Using a double needle sew the hem on both sleeves and on the bodice. Press and you are DONE. 😀
Hope you find this useful, if you have any questions just let me know, and I’ll do my best to help. You can get your free pattern here. Thank you NOSH for sharing.